The non-vintage Amontillado Carlos VII is far superior to the regular bottling. From a 25-year old Solera system, its medium to dark amber color is accompanied by a medium to full-bodied sherry revealing loads of pungent, earthy, nutty notes, a slightly oxidized character, and a long, persistent finish.

An initial blast of butter and sweaty cheese settles with airing, but this amontillado remains aggressive and demanding up front. In the mouth, this is correct in feel and balance. Saline-rich flavors of walnut, peanut and mushroom finish steady.

Terrific aromas and flavors of toffee, smoke and bittersweet chocolate take on strong nut and iodine notes toward the finish in this intense, dry wine. It's pungent and forceful, so try with tapas. Pedro Ximénez. Drink now. 200 cases imported.